Lip balm makes lips dry: Myth or fact

Be it summer or winter, lip balm can be used any time of the year, especially by people who complain about having dry lips. It is a topical product that moisturises and protects you from dry and chappy lips. It often contains waxes, and oils to lock in moisture and do away with dryness. That’s why they are very helpful in places with cold or dry climates, where natural oils from the lips get easily stripped. Most of the time, this lip care product works well. But not everyone will agree, as there are people who feel lip balms make lips dry. Is there some truth in that claim?

What are the benefits of lip balm?

This product is usually part of a daily skincare routine, especially for people who are prone to dry and cracked lips. “Unlike other parts of the body, lips are susceptible to drying out, as they lack oil glands. Applying a lip balm can help create a protective layer and retain moisture,” says aesthetic physician and cosmetologist Dr Karuna Malhotra.

• Their main benefit is hydration, which helps prevent uncomfortable chappy lips.
• Some lip balms contain sun protection factor, offering sun protection that shields lips from harmful ultraviolet rays and reduces the risk of sunburn.
• Medicated lip balms may contain ingredients like menthol and camphor, which can provide a soothing effect on application.
• Some formulations include antioxidants like vitamin E or botanical extracts, which can protect against free radical damage.

Does using a lips balm make lips dry?

You may want to save money and go for low-quality lip balms but it is not a wise thing, as it can dry them out instead of moisturising them, as per research published in the International Journal of Pharmaceutical Chemistry and Analysis in July 2024.

Also, some lip balms can make lips drier due to ingredients that irritate or dehydrate the skin. According to the American Academy Of Dermatology Association, avoid these ingredients if you have chapped lips:

• Camphor
• Eucalyptus
• Flavouring like mint, cinnamon, and citrus flavours, as they can be more irritating to chapped lips.
• Fragrance
• Menthol
• Salicylic acid

“Ingredients like menthol, camphor, and phenol, often added for a cooling sensation, can initially soothe but may strip away natural oils from the lips over time, leading to more dryness,” says Dr Malhotra. Alcohol-based ingredients, commonly used for their quick-drying properties, can also dehydrate the lips. Salicylic acid, which is added to exfoliate dead skin, can be too harsh, especially for sensitive lips, leading to irritation and dryness. Also, synthetic fragrances and flavours may irritate some people, causing lips to become inflamed or peel. Choosing balms without these ingredients can help prevent a drying effect on the lips.

Lips balm makes lips dry: Stop being dependent on it

Apart from ingredients of lip balms that make lips dry, make sure not to be too dependent on this lip care product. “Overusing it can lead to lip balm dependency, and make the lips feel dry without it. This can occur because some lip balms create a protective barrier that locks in moisture without adding new hydration, so frequent reapplication can lead to a cycle where lips never retain their natural moisture,” explains the expert.

Reapplying the product every couple of hours or when genuinely needed is usually enough to prevent dry lips. “For those in places with very dry climates or with extremely dry lips, applying 3 to 4 times a day should suffice. Applying it before bed can also help keep lips hydrated overnight,” says the expert.

Lips balm makes lips dry: Choose the right ingredients

Ingredients in lip balms that can help heal chapped lips, as per the American Academy Of Dermatology Association –

• Castor seed oil
• Hemp seed oil
• Mineral oil
• Shea butter

Lip balms made with natural, hydrating ingredients are less likely to dry out your lips. Look for ingredients like shea butter, cocoa butter, and natural oils such as coconut oil, castor seed oil, hemp seed oil, jojoba oil, and olive oil, which deeply moisturise without stripping the lips’ natural oils. “Hyaluronic acid and glycerin are excellent humectants that draw moisture into the lips, keeping them hydrated,” says the expert. Beeswax and candelilla wax can create a barrier to lock in moisture without irritating your skin. Vitamin E and aloe vera are gentle and soothing ingredients that help heal and protect the lips.

Lips balm makes lips dry: Alternatives to keep lips hydrated and soft

“If not a lip balm, there are other things to help maintain hydrated and soft lips,” says the expert.

• Drink enough water throughout the day to keep your body and skin, including lips, well hydrated.
• Exfoliate lips gently once a week with a sugar scrub or a soft toothbrush to remove dead skin cells.
• Use a humidifier, especially in dry indoor places, to prevent lips from becoming parched.
• Avoid licking your lips, as saliva evaporates quickly, and can leave lips drier than before. Protect your lips with a scarf in cold weather and use a lip product with SPF, especially while stepping out in the sun to further safeguard them.
• Incorporate a balanced diet rich in vitamins and minerals to support skin and lip health.

Regularly using a lip balm can create a smoother texture on the lips, making them feel softer. But watch out for certain ingredients like menthol and camphor, as lip balms make lips dry.